About the Technique
This method of "no warps" loom beading was introduced to the site by forum member Kathy Kostinkski. It uses eye screws and knitting needles to stitch up loomed beadwork without multiple warp threads that need to be woven-in.
After watching the tutorial, you can see that the most important parts of Kathy's loom are the eye screws (which you can find at any hardware store) and the pair of knitting needles that slide into them.
Instead of building my own loom frame, I decided to use a large wooden picture frame that I had lying around. Whatever you choose to use, make sure that its inside length is at least 10 to 12 inches longer than the longest band of beadwork you want to make.
I began by drilling small pilot holes in the frame for each eye screw. This helps to keep the wood from cracking when you install the screws. I used a small, twist hand drill with a small drill bit.
My eye screws are 1/2 inch in diameter. It's important to screw them in only as far as they need to go to be secure. You want them to stick out far enough that there is adequate space between each knitting needle and the frame to pass a spool of beading thread. (You'll see why when we get to warping.)
You'll need two screws at each end of the frame. Twist in each one as straight as you can, and try to position all four screws at the same height. Then slide in your knitting needles. Note that the knitting needles don't need to be the same size, they just need to be long enough to pass all the way through each pair of screws.
I used a size 6 knitting needle for one end of my loom, and -- because I didn't have a second needle on hand -- a 1/4-inch wooden dowel for the other end. (Although you can use dowels, I recommend knitting needles if you have them; they are slicker and less likely to snag your thread.)
That's all it takes to set up your loom. On Page 2, you'll see how I warped my loom.