Practice following an even-count tubular peyote stitch pattern as you create this colorful, lightweight bracelet band. Add a built-in peyote stitch toggle clasp to complete the look.
1. Gather Your Materials
This pattern uses size 11/0 Delica cylinder beads in the colors listed below. The quantities shown are enough to stitch a seven-inch bracelet, including the beaded toggle clasp:
- About 1.3 grams of transparent wine (dyed), DB-1312 (A)
- About 1.4 grams of light peach-lined crystal luster , DB-0067 (B)
- About 1.2 grams of opaque cream AB, DB-0157 (C)
To complete the bracelet, you'll also need the following beading supplies:
- Size D beading thread (I used Nymo in cream)
- Size 10 beading needle
- Beading scissors
- A 2mm-diameter beading form (optional, but recommended)
- Other optional supplies, such as a thread burner, thread conditioner, beading dishes, and a beading mat
2. Stitch the Bracelet Band
Prepare your needle and thread, using the longest length of thread that you feel comfortable working with. Repeat the even-count tubular peyote stitch pattern on the left to your desired band length, less about a half inch for the clasp (click on the image for a larger view). Remember that because this is even-count tubular peyote, you need to "step-up" at the end of each round.
Tip: A length of 2mm brass tubing (from a hobby or hardware store) makes a perfectly sized form to support the tube as you work. It also helps the beadwork keep its tubular shape without flattening.
3. Weave-In the Thread
When you complete the band, weave-in and end all of the thread tails. (You'll use new thread to attach the clasp.)
4. Stitch the Flat Peyote Swatch for the Toggle Bar
Prepare an arm span length of thread, and use the pattern on the left to stitch a swatch of flat even-count peyote stitch (please click the image to enlarge).
5. Zip-Up the Toggle Bar
Bring the first and last rows of the swatch together and join them by zipping-up.
6. Begin Stitching the Toggle Shank
Weave through the toggle bar beadwork and bring the needle out through a low bead that is the fourth bead in from one side. Pick up 1C, and pass through the next bead in that row of the toggle. Pick up another 1C and pass through the next bead in the toggle. (Click on the image on the left for a larger view of this thread path.)
7. Complete the Toggle Shank
Weave through the toggle to change the direction of your needle, and then pass back through the last 1C that you stitched-on. Pick up and stitch 1B, and then pick up and sitch another 1B. This completes the second row of the flat peyote stitch toggle shank.
Stitch two more rows of two beads each, one using 2A and the next using 2C. This completes the toggle shank.
In the image on the left, the toggle bar and shank are aligned with the bracelet band so that you can see how they come together in the next step.
8. Zip-Up to Join the Toggle Shank to the Bracelet Band
Zip-up to join the toggle shank to the last round of the tubular bracelet band (stitching the shank into four beads in that round). Pass through the join one more time for durability, and weave-in to end your thread.
In the image on the left, the top photo is a view of the front of the attached toggle, and the bottom photo is a view of its back.
9. Stitch the Toggle Ring
Pull and prepare another arm span of thread, and use circular peyote stitch to stitch the toggle ring for the other end of the bracelet. Begin with a base ring of 24 beads, alternating between 1A and 1C. Then stitch the third round by stitching-in 1B at a time. For the third round, stitch two stitches of 2B each, and then one stitch of 1A; repeat this motif all the way around.
10. Start Joining the Toggle Ring to the Bracelet Band
Start joining the toggle ring to the other end of the bracelet by stitching an A bead from the outermost round into the end round of the tubular band. Use the thread path shown in the image on the lower left.
11. Finish Joining the Toggle Ring to the Bracelet Band
Use the thread path shown here to finish stitching the toggle ring onto the tubular bracelet band.