Segmented Tila Bead Bracelet Pattern

You can use any combination of bead colors for this pattern, as long as the bead sizes and shapes remain the same. The following beads were used in the example bracelet. The quantities listed are for a total of five bracelet segments:

• About 1.5 grams of size 15/0 Miyuki round seed beads in color-lined peach; I.D. number 15-0785 (A)


• 30 Miyuki Tila beads in ivory pearl ceylon (B)


• About 0.5 grams of Miyuki rounds in color-lined light topaz/green; 11-757B (C)


• 20 antique style triangle 6mm Czech fire polished glass beads in Picasso teal; look for these at Beadweaver's or BelloModo (D)


• Five (one per segment) size 11/0 Miyuki rounds in color-lined light topaz/dark teal; 11-0757C (E)

If you don't have triangle style beads, you can use any round 6mm beads instead.

Tip: The bold, capitalized letters above are the bead key identifiers. They're used in the pattern and throughout this tutorial to identify particular beads.

You'll also need the following supplies:

• A size 12 English beading needle (or similar beading needle of your choice)
• Size D nylon beading thread in cream (I used Nymo)
• Beading scissors
• Thread conditioner or beeswax
• Two pairs of fine-tip chain nose pliers
• A few inches of Vintaj brass 5mm ornate cable chain with open (unsoldered) links; or enough jump rings to link together the bracelet segments
• Nine 5mm Vintaj brass jump rings
• One 12mm Vintaj brass lobster clasp
• One 9mm Vintaj brass figure-eight connector
• Optional supplies of your choice, such as a bead mat, bead dish, and thread burner

Prepare your needle and about one arm span of beading thread. After threading the needle, fold over a six-to-eight inch thread tail for single-strand beadweaving. Secure a stop bead about six to eight inches from the end of the thread.

The entire beadwork pattern for one segment of the bracelet is shown on the left (please click on the image for a full-size view). We'll focus on various parts of the pattern in the following steps.

Following the thread path shown in the chart on the left, stitch the first Tila bead using a modified ladder stitch. Pick up 1A, 1B, 1C, and 1B, and slide them down to the stop bead. Pass down through the Tila bead's second hole, and pull the thread gently taut. Then pick up 5B, pass through the first hole in the Tila, and pull the thread taut again.

Use the ladder-stitch thread path shown in the diagrams on the left to stitch the second Tila bead onto the first. Notice that this requires making a second pass through some existing beads. After picking up the second Tila bead, use your fingers to position it next to the first while you complete the stitch.

Use the thread path shown in these diagrams to stitch the third Tila bead into place. Then, bring the thread out through the middle C on the top of the third Tila, and pick up 2A and 1C.

Follow the thread path shown in this diagram to stitch the second row, beginning with the first loop picot on the right-hand side of the beadwork.

Tip: To keep the thread tension snug while making each picot, hold the picot loop gently with your fingers while using your other hand to pull the thread taut.

Weave through the beadwork to reposition the needle, as shown in the diagram on the left. Then, pick up 2A and pass back through 1D before stitching the next picot. Pick up the third D, 1B, 1A, 1E, 1A, and 1B, and pass through the D on the bottom left side of the beadwork.

Stitch another picot and pick up the final D bead. Then pick up 1D and 1A, and pass down through the existing E. (Notice that you are stitching in an "X" configuration here by crossing through that E.) Pick up another 1A and 1B, and weave up through the beadwork to reposition the needle, as shown.

Pick up 2A, 1B, and 2A, and pass through the next E moving right-to-left, as shown. Pull the thread taut, and tie a half-hitch knot over the existing thread to preserve the tension (this is the red star in the diagram; please click to enlarge).

Stitch another picot and 1A and 1B before picking up a Tila. Pick up 5A, and pass down through the other hole in the Tila (like you did to make the three end loops at the beginning of the pattern.)