1. Gather Your Materials
The pattern uses the following beads and beading supplies.
You may use any color combination of beads in the shapes and sizes given below. The colors I've listed are the general colors I used in the example bracelet, and the quantities are estimates for a 7-inch bracelet band.
- 70 clear Preciosa Twin beads (A)
Round Japanese seed beads:
- 70 size 11/0 in a medium green color (B)
- 50 size 11/0 in a pale blue (C)
- 30 size 15/0 in a dark opaque orange (D)
- 70 size 11/0 in a pale green (E)
- 42 size 11/0 in a pale orange or dark yellow (F)
- 46 size 15/0 in cream (G)
- 84 size 15/0 in medium opaque green (H)
- 28 size 11/0 in a violet purple (I)
- 28 size 11/0 in white or cream (J)
- 6-pound FireLine beading thread in crystal
- Size 12 English beading needle
- Hobby knife or children's craft scissors
- A thread burner
- A ready-made gold-plated jewelry clasp and two jump rings
- Two pairs of chain nose or flat nose pliers (or one of each)
- A bead mat and/or bead dishes
- Other essential beading supplies of your choice
2. Prepare Your Needle, Thread, and Beads
Pull at least an arms' span length of FireLine and cut it with an Xacto hobby knife or children's craft scissors. Flatten one end of the thread with your fingernail and thumbnail, and thread the needle for single-strand beadweaving.
Pour your beads into small piles on your bead mat or into bead dishes.
3. String the First Six Beads
Pick up 1A, 2B, 1A 1C, and 1D with the needle and slide them down to about 8 inches from the end of the thread.
Please click on any image in this article for a full-size view.
Tip: Be sure to cull your supply of Twin beads. A certain percentage of beads are usually misshapen, and using those beads can interfere with the lay of your bracelet. Inspect each bead before stringing or stitching it, and discard any that are noticeably uneven.
4. Stitch the Next Three Beads
Hold the first beads that you strung between your fingers, and use the needle to pick up another C bead.
Turn and pass through the empty hole in the nearest Twin.
Pick up 2E and pass through the empty hole in the next Twin.
Pull the thread taut.
5. Complete the First Two Rows
Pick up 1F, 1G, and 1F, and pass through all of the other beads again in the same direction. Bring the thread out through the upper hole in the first Twin bead.
While holding the beadwork between your fingers, tug the thread taut again.
This completes the first two rows of beadwork.
6. Begin the Next Row
Pick up 1H, 1A, 2B, 1A, and 1H.
Pass through the upper hole of the nearest Twin bead, the next two seed beads (2B), and the other Twin bead in the previous row.
Pass again through the first 1H, 1A, 2B, and 1A that you picked up in this step, and pull the thread taut.
7. Complete the Third and Fourth Rows
Pick up 1I, 1G, and 1I. Turn and pass through the empty hole in the nearest Twin bead.
Pick up 2E and pass through the next Twin bead. Pull the thread taut.
Pick up 1J, 1D, and 1J, and then pass again through the third and fourth rows, as shown, bringing your needle out of the first Twin bead in the fourth row. (Please remember that you can click on the images for larger views.)
Pull the thread taut again.
8. Follow the Pattern to Complete the Bracelet Band
Following the pattern on the left, use the same technique from the previous steps to continue stitching your bracelet band, working one row at a time.
Notice that this tutorial begins at the bottom of the pattern, and so you should read it from the bottom up. When you reach the top of the pattern, return to the bottom and repeat until you have your desired length of bracelet band.
9. Add End Loops
Finish your band with an even numbered row so that you have a flat beaded edge (rather than protruding Twin beads).
Weave through the beadwork to change direction, and bring the needle out after a Twin bead and before the pair of seed beads in the center of the last row. Pick up 7 size 15/0 beads (G, D, or H), and then pass back through the pair of seed beads.
Pass through the entire loop again to reinforce it.
Weave-in through the beadwork, and use a thread burner to cut the thread close to the beadwork.
Tip: It can be a little harder to weave-in through Twin beads than it is to weave-in through seed beads. If you have trouble changing direction from Twins, you may find it easier to pass through the same two rows a few times (a looping path), and then end your thread. The thread should be tight enough within the beads to be secure.
Thread the needle on the tail at the beginning end of the beadwork, and use the same process to make an end loop there. Weave-in and end that thread.