You can use this technique to make a beaded peyote stitch toggle clasp for a tubular herringbone stitch necklace or bracelet.
Note: This is an intermediate-level project, and the directions assume that you are already comfortable with beadweaving basics, such as preparing a needle and thread, holding your beadwork, and weaving-in.
Please click on any image in this tutorial for a full-size view.
You'll need the beads and supplies listed below to make one clasp. The width of the completed toggle ring is about 23mm, and the minimum length of the toggle bar is about 34mm. The entire clasp will add about 1.25 inches to the length of your jewelry.
In the example I used Delicas in sparkling beige lined chartreuse, Delicas in sparkling salmon lined topaz, 11/0 Miyuki rounds in opaque turquiose green, and 8/0 Miyuki rounds in opaque turquoise green. To see the I.D. numbers and source information for these colors, please see the beads and supplies list for the necklace shown.
You'll also need your kit of essential beadweaving supplies, including a size 12 beading needle and size D or 6-pound beading thread.
Begin by making the two bands of peyote stitch that will connect the toggle ring and bar to your beaded rope. Make these with cylinder beads and about two feet of beading thread each, leaving thread tails that are at least eight inches long. Make both bands three columns wide, but make one of the bands 21 rows long and the other 11 rows long. Do not weave-in or trim the thread tails.
After completing the last row of each little band, weave through to the opposite edge of the beadwork so that the thread tail exits one of the edge beads at that end.
You'll attach the bands to the ends of your herringbone stitch rope by folding them over and stitching both ends of each band to the rope. Once attached, the bands look like wide, beaded end loops.
Please click on the image on the left for a full size view of the suggested thread path. With the needle on one of the thread tails on one of the bands, pass down through a bead in the very last row of tubular herringbone stitch and through the bead directly below it. Pull the thread tight. Reverse direction and pass up through the adjacent two beads that are part of the same two herringbone stitches (in the same "spine") as the first two beads you passed through. Pull the thread tight again.
Pass into the band, as shown, and then repeat the entire circular stitch one more time for reinforcement. Weave-in the thread within the herringbone stitch beadwork, and trim it off close to the beadwork.
Repeat this process to stitch the other end of the same band to the other side of the herringbone stitch tube. Be sure to stitch through beads that are directly opposite the bead that you stitched through for the first end of the band.
Now repeat this entire process with the second peyote stitch band.
I'm including this step to show you a photo of what both ends of the tube should look like after the narrow bands of beadwork have been stitched on.
Using a new length of a few feet of thread and Delicas, make a swatch of flat odd count peyote stitch with eight rows and at least 17 columns. I say "at least" because anything shorter will not be very secure when latched in the toggle ring, and you can go several columns longer if you plan to wear your jewelry loosely or have any concerns about the toggle remaining latched. Just make sure that you have an odd number of columns.
Leave a thread tail that is at least 10 inches long when you start. Zip up the ends to make a dense cylinder.
Weave-in and trim off the working end of the thread, and thread the needle onto the thread tail. Weave through the beadwork and bring the thread out through a bead at the very middle of the cylinder.
The toggle bar needs to be attached to the longer of the two bands that you previously stitched onto the tubular herringbone rope. Start by squeezing that band flat between your fingers and locating the beads positioned at its very middle; these will be two edge beads (rather than a single bead in the middle of the band). Pass through one of those edge beads, going from the center toward the edge.
Pull the thread taut so that the toggle bar slides down against the narrow band. Reverse direction and weave through to the opposite edge of the beadwork, one row below the row that you initially passed into (in Step 6).
Pull the thread taut, and then reverse direction again. Pass through (in the same direction) the same bead in the toggle bar that the thread exits. Pull the thread tight.
Pass through the same bead in the band, in the same direction, that you passed through in Step 6. Pull the thread taut, and then stitch this bead into the one directly above it on the toggle bar using a ladder stitch thread path.
Pull the thread tight, and then repeat that ladder stitch three more times for extra reinforcement.
Reverse direction and weave back to the other edge of the beadwork, as shown. Reverse direction again, and use the technique from Step 8 to stitch and reinforce the two beads on this side.
Make sure the thread is pulled tight, and then weave-in and end the thread within the narrow band of peyote stitch. To ensure that the thread is secure, zig-zag down and then up the band again while weaving in. This completes the toggle bar portion of the clasp.
See the next page for the toggle ring.