CLEANING POWDER (a.k.a. BEAD RELEASE or KILN WASH) FROM GLASS BEADS: The holes in some of the cheaper grade of glass bead may be coated inside with a thick caked powder*. This was used to prevent the bead from sticking to the metal rod (mandrel) on which it was shaped. If you don't clean it out, the powder can leak in an unsightly way and/or damage the beadwire or string. The interiors of hollow blown or lampwork beads may also be scummed with the same stuff. If you have this problem at all, it can be a major irritation, rising to desperation if you need to clean a lot of beads in a hurry. There are many ways to clean bead release out, some safer than others. As the powder's ingredients vary, what works for one batch of beads may not work for the next. Here are some conservative tips: -- Never clean this material dry. The powder, in quantities, may be bad for your lungs. Brush or ream it out wet. Unless chemicals are nvolved (see below), dispose of the sludgy water in the garden, or by filtering out the clay so it will not clog your drains. -- Bead release is abrasive and can damage the tools or brushes you use to ream it out. Useful tools for narrow bead holes include professional bead reamers (from bead and jewelry supply vendors -- often expensive); the narrowest needle files; "wire files" (stiff metal wires coated in abrasive material like the surface of "diamond" nail files, available from some dental suppliers or specialty tool stores); and pipe-smokers' pipe cleaners. Craft-quality pipe cleaners are cheap, but shred quickly if the bead release isn't well loosened beforehand. -- Before reaming, you can soak glass beads overnight in any of the mixtures below, in order of increasing strength. PRETEST ON A BEAD OR TWO IF YOU HAVE ANY CONCERN ABOUT DAMAGE. - One part fresh baking soda to three or four parts very hot or boiling water (the ol' teapot-cleaning formula); soak at least an hour. Make sure your beads can stand the water temperature. - Warm or hot water plus any strong detergent, e.g. dishwasher detergent or concentrated washing powder. - Any standard denture cleaner, mixed full or extra strength with warm or hot water. - One part fresh baking soda to three or four parts white vinegar; some people also add a little borax. Should fizz vigorously when first mixed. Add the soda to the beads dry, then pour on the vinegar and stir gently to mix. - A strong mix of warm or hot water with either Calgon water softener or Cascade Complete dishwasher precleaner. (Warning: these are stronger chemicals; the latter contains phosphates.) Calgon is an old favourite, but recent opinion tends to be that Calgon's new formula is not as effective as its original one. If you can find its most effective ingredient -- sodium hexametaphosphate -- in pure form from a cleaning supply store, you could use it instead. Follow manufacturer's instructions for handling; make sure the chemicals dissolve fully before soaking. - Lime-Away, or an equivalent full-strength lime and scale remover designed for ceramic tile. In Canada, the Home Hardware chain has an inexpensive house brand. (Warning: these are strong chemicals: follow manufacturers' instructions for handling). -- A few glassworkers report isolated successes with other chemicals such as trisodium phosphate (TSP), kettle and humidifier descaling compounds, drain cleaners, and swimming pool cleaning compounds. All are very powerful substances; use, if at all, with appropriate caution. Contributed by Bennet M. (Note from your Guide - Chemicals such as drain cleaner and pool chmicals are hazardous, caustic and VERY TOXIC! They can cause serious injury and should never be used for anything other than their intended use.)